Category Archives: Weaving

Wedding Gift

My first project of 2020 was a pair of scarves for a couple getting married in New Zealand.  There was a little bit of pressure as I had to finish them and get them in the mail for the wedding next month.  This depended entirely on finishing the 30, 2019 Christmas towels first as I was using the same loom and threading/tie-up.

Happily the towels were finished in plenty of time to post back to NZ for those recipients and to deliver to those in the US.  However the smooth transition from one warp to the next was not quite as predicted.  The plan was to just tie the new warp on to the existing towel warp as it was going to be a perfect pattern for the scarves and a quick check on the Internet assured me that the 8/2 tencel (scarf) was the same as 8/2 cotton (towels).  The knotting and pull through worked fine and I was set up fairly quickly only to discover that the two yarns were not really identical.  This was obvious as the twill line was way less than 45 degrees, indicating the sett was too open (at 24 epi).  This was quickly confirmed by doing a wrap test showing cotton = 34, tencel = 39.  So mental note: don’t believe what I read on the Internet (no kidding) and always do a wrap test as part of the calculations (this was actually the very first in my 10+ years of weaving where I didn’t).

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The solution was to re-slay the reed  to 28 epi and here by thinking I could take a short cut and just ‘move the threads over’ rather than pull all threads out and re-slay at the correct epi.  Second mental note:  moving the threads over to the new sett invites crossed threads. I added another day to the process just sorting that out – it should have only taken a couple of hours to re-slay!!

Anyway the weaving at the new sett eventually began.  As mentioned 8/2 tencel with a variegated warp and plain weft.  The color choices are an attempt to look like the NZ paua shell (US = abalone), and did come pretty close to perfect.

To the left under artificial light and to the right with flash – the better color depiction is to the right.  It is an 8 shaft twill with the two 45 degree directions meeting in the middle.

After completion of the two scarves I used a standard hand stitched finish and then used a fringe twister to wrap the warp ends (deliberately left long for this purpose).  That job was actual Anne’s, she is way more efficient at it than I am!  The scarves were then hand washed, drip dried, and gently ironed.

Tencel Scarf

Wrapping and a card were procured and then off to the Post Office they went.  They should be due in NZ anytime now – a few weeks before the wedding.

Next project is a tartan throw as a house-warming gift for our friend Terri in Southern Virginia.

Guild Activity

I volunteered (was volunteered?) to run the January program for the Scenic Valley Handweavers Guild (scenicvalleyhandweavers.blogspot.com) as they had a gap in their program.  I recalled a program we had at the Wellington Weavers Group I had participated in during our year back in NZ.  The group set up a loom (it was an 8 shaft table loom) with a white warp with a point twill threading then each member participating wove their own yarn as weft in one of the many suggested variations of treadling.  Anne and I both produced very nice looking towels when our turn came up.  The idea was you wove your sample and then moved the loom on to the next person on the list. It seemed like an ideal exercise for this guild as it would give our rigid heddle weavers a chance to experiment with a table loom.

Phyllis (who owns R&M Yarns where we have our monthly meetings (www.rmyarns.com)) had a nice handmade table loom out the back, and I took on the task of dressing the loom before the meeting and preparing some basic guidance for using the loom and some information on drawdowns and designs that might be woven on the point twill (for 4 shaft) threading.

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The warp was 8/2 cotton (donated by Phyllis) and I wound on enough for 10 people to participate (weaving around 22 inches of their chosen design in their choice of 8/2 cotton (or other) and some space between woven tabby to make into rolled hems.  The threading almost went perfectly, but unfortunately I discovered a threading error – made a quick replacement heddle and fixed the error, but I should have checked a little bit more thouroughly.  It looked right on the tabby sheds, but I didn’t check if I had fixed it for the twill sheds. As it turns out the error looked to be gone, as on a tabby shed the fix I did put it on shaft 2 and it would have looked the same on shaft 4.  Unfortunately for twill it was the wrong choice (should have been 4) which I didn’t pick up until I started weaving twill after my header/tabby hem!  I left it in and pointed it  out during my intro!

My own choice for pattern and color was for a potential gift towel set done in red, white, and blue (the white being the warp) and the colors coming in from the 2/2 twill weft shots.  The point twill will produce diamonds if woven 1234, 1234, 1234, 3214, 3214, 3214 and repeating, but I expanded that sequence by not only weaving 2/2 twill but starting with 1/3 twill then 2/2 twill then 3/1 then reverse and repeat with each having a portion of the complete sequence.  This stretched the diamond out and shows varying amounts of the white background.  I changed between red and blue after each complete sequence.

The design came out reasonably well (minus the white line on the right side – the threading error) and has a certain 4th of July fireworks look about it, so I think it will be a go for making some sets for sale/gifts come May/June.  I’ll do that on one of my floor looms as although the table loom works just fine it is fairly slow weaving when you have to change each shed by hand.  On a floor loom I can do a direct tie-up and treadle with my feet and just throw the shuttle and beat.

At the February meeting the loom was on the number 7 person so should be all finished by our next meeting.  I will cut the samples off – wet finish them and cut them up to hand out a the following meeting.  For the March meeting we are doing a similar exercise but with a rigid heddle loom which I am looking foward to as I have not had much experience with that type of weaving.

Townsend Blue Ribbon Fair 2018

We visited Townsend last weekend so that I could participate as part of the Townsend Artisan Guild.  This was the third year that I have demonstrated weaving.  There is normally a spinning demonstration as well and the guild sets up an arts and crafts tent were kids are able to participate in various activities.

I normally set up on the verandah at the front of the Heritage center – visible as folk come in the main entrance.  This year we set up on the porch of the Montvale Station log home – one of the several dotted around the site.  I wasn’t sure that we would see the same volume of traffic at the back, but that was not the case and throughout the day I had a steady stream of visitors.

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The porch turned out to be an ideal place to set up – I had shade the whole day although it was hot without much of a breeze.  I had a table to put a whole range of my weaving plus hung a tapestry made by my father and some South American hand manipulated weaving.  I wove cotton dish towels on the HD loom.  Carefully taking my time as I only had enough warp left for about one towel, so I definitely talked more than wove.

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I had one or two weavers call by, but mostly it was just interested people who came to look in the cabin and stopped to see what I was doing.  Lots of kids asking great questions.  As often happens at these demonstrations I also acted as an unpaid travel agent once people found out I was from New Zealand.

Harrisville Designs Loom

I am now the custodian of the HD Loom from Townsend.  The guild there didn’t have the storage room at the guild studio/shop and there aren’t any other serious weavers in the guild.  There are several fiber artists who include weaving in their talents, but not a major part of their portfolio.  As I am very likely to be the weaving demonstrator for many years to come we made a deal where I invoice the guild for the time I spend preparing the loom and transporting it to and from Townsend.  Those costs will eventually equal a suitable purchase price for the loom. Also there is a possibility of running courses for any guild members interested in basic or advanced weaving topics.

So with the loom becoming more permanently mine I looked a little more seriously at some of the loom features.  As a ‘folding’ loom it is easily transportable, but it does have some minor problems.  Being an older (Type A) loom it didn’t come with wheels to make it easy to maneuver around.  The kit to do this is available from HD, but is $80.  I suspect I can probably make something for a lot less.

The wheels fit onto the bottom of one side of the castle base.  The loom is then tilted to the side to move.  While I can lift the whole loom by myself this may not always be the case!!

The other minor problem has been that connections to the heddles (open hooks connecting to loops in the cables) come off when transporting the loom. This then can cause the cables to drop off pulleys in any of the places where they run.  To someone who isn’t familiar with the loom this can be a show stopper as to operate smoothly they need to be distributed across the correct pulleys and connected, without twisting, to the right heddle.  It’s all to do with maintaining tension on these cables, so as a trial I have added a couple of bungy cords around the bottom of the heddle frames and a cross-bar on the lower castle frame.  If that works out I may put something a little bit more practial in place.

 

Towels Finished

With a day of weaving on Tuesday I managed to finish the Angel Towel order.  With the thick yarn this was a fast weave even with the color changes at the stripes and the moving of the temple.

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As the sun was well over the yardarm (Navy saying) I poured a congratulatory glass of wine to mark the finish.  There is enough warp for about 2 more, but that can vary based on how regular my beat has been over the first 5 towels.  It can be plus or minus so I may have plenty for 2, or just 1 plus a short towel.

I cut the towels off the loom and hemmed each end – leaving a strip of 5 towels, then IMG_9666trimmed any longer cotton tails (at joins)  as they get fairly twisted when wet finishing.  Once it was all tidy it went into the wash on regular (with a few other items of laundry).  The wet finishing draws in and tightens the cotton.  From 15 inches on the loom the towels end up at 12 inches wide and the cotton swells up a little filling in gaps in the tabby weave and opening the huck lace portions.  I can then cut up the individual towels and hem each remaining end.  The hemming went smoothly with my old sewing machine – definitely worth the extra effort to use 8/2 cotton in the weft for 1.5 inches, making it a lot thinner cloth and able to be folded twice to make the hems.

The towels will be dropped off in North Carolina next month and the remaining warp on the loom will be used to demonstrate weaving at the Blue Ribbon Festival at the end of the month.  I’ll have to pace myself and not finish the weaving in the first hour as I am demonstrating all day!

New Hem Style

Last time I wove with the 4.5/4 cotton (2015 Christmas Towels and Indigo dyed towels) I found that because of the thickness of the yarn and hence the woven cloth, the only way to sew the rolled hems at each end was to hand stitch.  They were too thick to go through my old nearly vintage sewing machine!

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After finishing the first Angel Towel you can see the potential solution.  This came from a tip from Phyllus Narus, owner of R&M Yarns in Georgetown, TN and fellow member of the Scenic Valley Handweaver’s Guild.  She too had experienced the problem and suggested using 8/2 cotton at either end, with enough woven for the triple fold but not adding the bulk of the 4.5/4.  I’m hoping it should work a treat.

Between towels I put a red marker thread so I know where to cut.  So far the weaving has been pretty fast (the thick yarn), and the huck lace pattern is not difficult to treddle.  I’m using a temple (from Leclerc) to keep the selvedges neat as the sett is reasonably open (which closes up after wet finishing).

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Angel Towels

After creating the blue yarn for these towels (the feature stripes) it was time to set up the loom.  I had just finished removing some test weaving from the HD loom.  This was the blue stripe/checked demonstration warp that I put on the loom for the Scenic Demo ClothValley Handweavers guild to use at their booth at the Smoky Mountain Fiber Arts Festival this year.  Not a particularly great demonstration of weaving, but I know a lot of the visitors are not weavers so perhaps nobody noticed.  I briefly considered unweaving and then finishing the cloth to use somewhere, but seemed way more work than really needed.

So with the loom cleaned I felt inspired to see if I could find out a little more of the loom back story.  Knowing only that it was donated to the guild in Townsend, TN, I did some searching on the web to see if there was any sort of lookup for serial numbers (A6 1259).  There wasn’t but one fiber artist mentioned that Harrisville Design would send information they had on file if you emailed them.  The other information I had was stamped on the reed (11-4-93), and while there is no guarantee that the reed was original with the loom the chances are good as it appears to be the type they still supply.  I emailed and had a reply back that unfortunately they don’t have the 80’s and 90’s sales records any more, but the ‘A’ was the original Type A loom built during those decades.  I had already assumed the ‘6’ represented the number of treddles. Along with the date the reed was manufactured all I really know is it was most likely built in the first half of the 90’s and either went directly to the Townsend area or was sold/bought and ended up there for a period.

While that didn’t quite go as smoothly or successfully as hoped – the dressing of the loom was a breeze.

The loom is 31.5 inches deep so lends itself to using yard sticks as support for lease sticks (for the cross), raddle and reed.  The warp was chained and wound on using the yank and crank method of winding a little, pulling on the warp to settle the threads then repeat.  I put 6 or so lease sticks around the back beam as the apron rod met it and then used heavy brown paper to keep the warp threads separated as it wound on.  IMG_9592When I am dressing the loom back to front I set the reed up horizontally and pull the warp thread through the appropriate heddle then directly through the next reed dent. Then it is a simple matter to mount the reed horizontally in the beater frame. I then tied on to the front apron rod and now just need to re-check tension before finalising the square knots and beginning to weave.

The goal is to weave the 5 towels needed, cut them off and finish, leaving two more on the loom to be woven as a demonstration at the Blue Ribbon Festival at the end of September.

Storm Season

We have hit our ninth day in a row with a severe storm warning!!  Typically the day starts out with pretty humid conditions and fog through the valley.  That transitions into sunshine which burns off the fog and bumps the temperature up into the nineties!  Like clockwork all this energy comes together to produce a whole lot of potential energy which is released as thunderstorms and heavy rain.  I’ve been working outside and in the forest a lot, but generally have to head inside to the cool of air conditioning after lunch.  This has been good for the weaving – I have completed another 12 inches of the scarf.

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It’s progressing pretty well and I have the pattern repeat down pat so now the only thing to concentrate on is keeping the beat consistent and the selvedges neat.  Neither are quite perfect, but are getting better and the good news is I haven’t broken any warp/selvedge threads since the two mentioned previously.

My forest work has been fairly focussed in the last 36 hours as we have lost two oaks.  One (in photo’s below) was dead when we moved in so we were not too surprised when it came down.  Luckily it didn’t take out any other larger trees. Unluckily it fell across our main path into the forest!!  Just in the branches alone we will have a nice stack of firewood for the hot tub and the bonus is it is ready to burn straight away.  The other tree was at the front of the property and fell down across the valley access road!  It had been leaning across the road since we moved in.  Unfortunately the daily rain (an inch plus most often) has saturated that lower part of the property and it just gave way.  The council was quick to clear the road and some neighbors who helped clean up, took away some firewood as did we.  We have saved twenty plus feet of trunk that I will have milled and store away to season/age.

The other work has been a daily blackberry pick.  Just from our front yard bushes alone we are getting over a pound a day.  We are freezing them in pound lots until all the picking is done (another week perhaps).  It has been a bumper crop this year, better than any other year and perhaps IMG_9412makes up for the abysmal tomato crops we’ve had.  I was speaking to our neighbor yesterday – he’s a wonderful gardener – and he confirmed that this is the worst year he has had for ‘maters’.  As he has lived here all his life that at least makes us feel a little better.  Oddly, the chillis we have are all doing really well.  From banana peppers right up to ghost peppers.

 

 

Weaving of a kind

I’ve ended up distracted from fiber work over the last week.  Partly weather and partly a few more urgent chores, and then there was a brief trip to Atlanta to catch up with family.

We did, however, have our first crop of onions this year.  Not huge, but not too bad for a first real attempt at growing them.  After digging up, drying in the sun and trimming we had the challenge of ‘weaving’ them into ropes.

Onion Rope

Needless to say, having never done this before, it only took a quick Google Search to find a ‘how to’ video.  These two ropes are the larger onions and they are now hanging behind the door in our back room.  There were a few smaller ones which are currently awaiting a purpose!

As it rained all afternoon yesterday – I did do some weaving on the woolen scarf!

 

Broken Floating Selvedges

After being driven inside by the high humidity/heat (heat index of 100+) of late afternoon I decide to do some more scarf weaving on Dot, the Leclerc Dorothy table loom.  This is the very fine wool test scarf and it has been a while since I have worked on it.

All was going well until the right hand floating selvedge broke.  Broken warp threads or in this case a floating selvedge thread are relatively easy to fix with a pin to anchor the thread into the woven cloth below the fell line, then carry on weaving until there is enough to grip the thread and remove the pin.

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All was going well and then the left hand selvedge thread broke!!  Too much of a coincidence so I’ve had to look at what caused this.  Previously I had woven several feet of cloth without any breakages so it wasn’t anything obvious.  I had woven several inches yesterday when the breakages happened and hadn’t really been paying attention to the draw in which had mostly been minimal.  If the draw in becomes too severe it means more wear and tear from the beater to the outside warp yarn and in particular the floating selvedges.  It doesn’t appear much in the photo, but given the yarn is rather thin I suspect I was beating a little harder than previously and combined with the small draw in was enough to ‘wear out’ the floating selvedge threads.

I’ll remedy this by paying more attention to beating (a little less firm), and also reduce the weight on the floating selvedge threads to lower the tension slightly.  Lower tension can increase the draw in, but I will take care to place the weft yarn without too much tension to avoid this.

In other work yesterday (during cooler hours) I finished the two old saws that I had bought.  Despite some decades of neglect they cleaned up pretty well, and will eventually have some sharpening done to bring them back completely.

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