Category Archives: Weaving

Moving Yarn

For those readers now looking for some deep and meaningful story, alas it is not to be! This is the story of moving yards of yarn from one format to another.

It is October and time to start the 2026 Christmas towels. The structure this year will be my favorite huck lace diamond design, with a solid white warp and then using up my odds and ends of greens and reds – a striped weft. These will be woven on ‘Big Mac’ as I need the full 8 shafts for the pattern. I normally wind enough warp on the loom for 28 towels which give me enough for the family and friends gifts with, one or two left over. This year I am trying more warp so that I can weave the required number of Christmas towels and have some left for a dozen in other colors (perhaps spring, summer, or fall combo’s).

As I have a sectional beam on ‘Big Mac’ I first wind the required number of bobbins with enough yarn to fill the 11 sections needed for a starting width of 22″. This year I am using a 6/2 combed cotton for the warp instead of the normal 8/2 open ended. There’s a slight difference in the weight (as the number goes down the weight goes up, but it won’t be a significant difference). It could result in the ‘diamonds’ not being as symmetrical, but I can likely adjust tension and beat to compensate. Time will tell.

The yarn comes from the cone to the fishing line counter under finger tension to ensure the counter doesn’t slip. In this configuration it is counting down from 999, but as I am winding on 1000 feet it’s just a matter of winding until I hit 999 again. The yarn then travels 25 feet down to a peg and back to the bobbin I’m winding. This length is critical to allow the yarn to naturally go from side to side on the bobbin and thus wind evenly. It’s still sometimes a little uneven but not enough to be a problem.

This is the 36 bobbins full. That’s 6.82 miles of yarn moved from the cone. Next steps will be to wind the sectional beam – a future posting.

Other work during the weekend, which was going to wet right through with the remnants of hurricane Isaias passing to the west of us. We mostly had inside work planned because of that but Sunday afternoon all rain was gone so we did manage to get outside.

Before that though I worked on my small kumihimo bobbins (tama). I have to add some weight to each so that there will be a natural tension between them and the weight bag (Tsuri-omori) as I braid. This is all an experiment to see if I can produce these for the potential class in beaded kumihimo.

Initially I bore out the center hole to make space for as much lead as possible. I then hammer in lead air rifle pellets to fill the hole. Finally to tidy up the ends and add just a little more weight I glue a nickel on either end. I need a set of eight before I can try braiding.

Anne didn’t waste any time either. She wound and then braided her second beaded kumihimo necklace with very little input from me this time.

Her new one has the Ravens purple and gold braid along with white and gold beads.

And as mention we did get outside to gather some firewood from the forest. The dampness is not a problem as I just gather limbs off fallen dogwood or in a lot of cases standing dead dogwood that absorbs very little water for years.

A relatively quick burn before a nice soak before dinner.

And the final news from the Oak & Fern… I saw what is likely to have been our last hummingbird for the season. Our regular ‘flock’ of 10+ left a week or so back but yesterday there was a lone hummingbird at the feeder. Very likely from north of here and heading south like the rest. We keep feeders up for a few more weeks just in case.

Alternative (and very temporary) Studio

With the work on the studio stairs still underway all the looms are in ‘storage’ positions out of the way of the actual building. I have deadlines to meet on the next two projects so one solution was to move ‘Gypsy’, the HD 21 inch 4 shaft portable loom into the kitchen. The work I had to do was to re-sley the reed to see how my combined card weaving/floor loom would look on a 10 dent reed rather than the original 8 dent. The first test was at 8 dent and each group of 4 warp yarns has to go through the same dent in the reed. This spread it out a little too much so that the weft showed up in the finished sample. Typically you don’t see the weft in a card woven sample. The warp yarn easily moved around in the dent at 8 so I was confident that at 12 it would work and bring the warp yarn groups closer.

The re- sleying worked fine and then the tying on of both the card woven portion and then floor loom parts.

It has taken a while to get the tension and beat ‘right’ as while the card woven part in now better, the twill weave on the floor loom sections is now a completely different sett. It was 2 ends per dent in the first example (16 epi) and is now 1 end per dent (10 epi). It requires just ‘placing’ the weft rather than an actual beat.

I’ve ended up with the card weaving upside down, hence the second photo of the underneath of the woven portion!!

I’ll carry on weaving this now so I have plenty to be seen at the guild meeting in October where I am going to show everyone how it is done.

In a typical ‘the best laid plans of…’ fashion yesterday we set off into the forest to gather some firewood to heat the hot tub. We’d not gone more that a couple of hundred yards when the definite sound of heavy rain on trees could be heard approaching from the west. We turned around and barely made it back to the house before a heavy deluge started and along with some thunder, continued through until lunch time. Out backup indoor plan was to start teaching Anne how to do beaded kumihimo ahead of the May 2027 Birchwood Fiber Festival ( https://birchwoodfiberfestival.com/ ) where she will likely be assisting in a class teaching students this technique. We had to time how long various aspects of the process would take so that we could see if it was going to be at all possible in a 2-3 hour session.

First step was to wind yarn (20/2 unmercerised cotton) into groups of 6 and attach them onto the tamas (bobbins). With that done we then had to put the required beads onto each strand.

That all went smoothly and we attached the 8 tamas to the marudai ready for braiding. I used mine and Anne used the marudai I had made as a test. The idea was to be able to demonstrate the actual techniques without having to swap places on the one marudai. We braided 1/3 plain braid then 1/3 with beads and then 1/3 plain again. The basic plan for a class is we would have everything up to almost the end of the first 1/3. Everything would be set up and ready to go from then so the new student only needed to learn the basic braiding moves then braiding with beads then finish off the last portion. Seeing this was a first time for Anne we timed her as our ‘test case’ Sadly she is a very quick learner and once started was almost as fast as me and she didn’t make any mistakes (like I did, requiring an un-braid, re-braid to fix putting two instead of one bead on one turn!!). It still showed that our basic plan still seems sound.

We have noted any improvements to be made and I’ve ordered the clasps to make these into necklaces or if the plain braid is cut shorter; bracelets. Once we cut them off and finish them I’ll drop the pictures into a future post.

We can now return the ‘craft’ table to normal kitchen table work, and now the loom is up and running move that back to the studio. We’ll have a kitchen again.

Sampling

A little while back we received some new (Production Excess) yarns at R&M Yarns (rmyarns.com), where I work two days a week. They were 8/2 and 4/2 cottons in a number of colors. Whilst sorting them (for shelving and to put on the web) I noticed that of all the colors (and there were 20 plus) there was only one color that was in both sizes. That got me thinking if it would be possible to weave towels (face cloths, hand towels and larger) using both size yarns but alternating thick and thin.

I bought a cone of 8/2 and 4/2 in ‘sepia’, to try it out. I did a wraps per inch test winding thick then thin alternately and that indicated a 12 dent reed would be fairly close to OK for tabby weave. Rather than try and wind the warp with alternate thick then thin I went for wind half the required number of 8/2 and then the other half of 4/2. This required me having them either side of me when I dressed the loom (front to back). I’d take one , sley the reed then thread the appropriate heddle. Next would be the other side into the next dent and heddle. Then repeat.

The weft was easier – two shuttles one with 8/2 and the other with 4/2 and it was one shot with one shuttle, change the shed, then the other. This meant the shuttles followed each other from one side to the next, so I always put them down in the same order and picked them up in the same order to keep the selvedges consistent. I did use floating selvedges to keep everything neater.

I tried two different approaches. A portion was woven as originally planned with alternate thick and thin in both warp and weft and a portion with alternate warp and just thin in the weft.

At the top is the weft only using 8/2 and at the bottom is the alternating 8/2 then 4/2 warp and weft.

It did produce some ‘texture’ in the warp and weft alternating sample and it has in ‘interesting’ look to it. The selvedges came out very well as they compressed a little to produce a nice border. The only negative I felt was it seems a little more ‘open’ than I’d think ideal. So I’ll re-sley the remaining warp in to a 14 dent reed and try that. This sample was both sizes of yarn being the same color, but even more interesting effects could be achieved with different colors in the two sizes. That will be a sample after I’m happy with the ends per inch.

And the ‘coaster’ sampler for the Guild challenge is finished with the second half in just two colors making the pattern pop! The sample, above photo’s of front and back, has been fringed, trimmed, and wet finished. Just a light steam iron then it’s all ready for the meeting on the 19th.

Back to the blog

I certainly has been a long time between posts and it’s NOT because I haven’t been doing fiber related activities! But first; to answer the question from the last post… The annual Guild Christmas party is now firmly fixed at the Oak & Fern – I don’t seem to have been given any choice! So, to restart the blogging I’ll bring in a small project, physically small but not in the work involved.

The annual Guild challenge this year was a type of random draw. Each participant had to draw 4 items, with each being a component of the final product. There was: fiber type, color, weave structure, and finishing. I drew 4 which could only be described as relatively easy in: cotton or cotton blend, red, twill, and fringe. Nothing I wasn’t fairly familiar with and I certainly had plenty of yarn to work with – I went with colors of 3/2 pearl cotton left over from weaving tartan throws.

But… this is always supposed to be a challenge so in looking into how I could make it more of a challenge with something I had not done before I thought of advanced twills. Knowing that advanced twills often relied on multi-shaft looms and I only have one 8 shaft loom and all the rest being just 4 I took a leap and decided to do a 16 shaft pattern. This, of course, relies entirely on hand manipulation. So the simple solution was to use NO heddles and effectively hand weave each weft shot! I set up ‘Dot’ (Leclerc Dorothy table loom) with 32 warp threads which will be two repeats of the 16 pattern.

The plan was to print out the draw down for the design which came from an on-line collection of ‘The Fanciest Twills of All” by Irene K. Wood. As each shot was made I crossed off that line with a highlighter as after a few shots I kept mixing up which shot I was on. By doing a shot at a time and leaving yarn out either side I’m able to build up a knotted fringe up the sides as well as the fringes at either end.

Following are some of the photo’s so far. It’s not finished yet but should be before the meeting in a couple of weeks. Photo 1 is the warp through the beater with spacing weft in place. Photo 2 is several weft shots in various bands of colors and photo 3 more of that. Photo 4 has the first 16 weft shots plus some fillers as it’s not perfectly balanced (warp and weft) and I want it to be a square. The second half will be just one color weft (white) vice the multi-color bands of the first half.

Current Weaving Projects

Knotted pile rug woven on ‘Bernie’.

On the upright loom I began another Turkish knotted rug after completing ‘Denim’ last year. This one is called ‘Te Aruhe Kowhaiwhai’. Te Aruhe is ‘the fern’ and Kowhaiwhai is a style of decoration common in Maori meeting houses. It’s my own design and represents the winding fern fronds of our forest home which we call The Oak and Fern. Possibly that means I’ll have to create an acorn pattern for the next one.

Handspun 2 ply cotton woven in tabby on ‘Dot’.

I began learning how to spin cotton a few months back and this woven test is from the first skeins I produced. Lots of ‘character’. I have improved enough that I am now producing a relatively even 3 ply that should weave up more neatly.

Variegated yarn table runner, birds eye twill on ‘George’.

The first table runner from the yarn brought back from NZ is complete. I’ll space out enough for fringes then start number 2. It will be different from this one in that it will have just white yarn in the weft to pick out the birds eye twill a little better.

QR code woven in skip plain weave on ‘Gypsy’.

It’s been slow going on this project as it’s a very manual and intricate process to weave each pick and after I leave it for a while I have to go back and try and remember how to do it to maintain a consistent transition from black to white and reverse.

These are the weaving projects. Next I’ll detail the spinning and will also update the Studio build pages with photos of the progress.

Weaving in New Zealand

We are just back from a very pleasant 3 weeks visiting family and friends in New Zealand. While visiting Havelock in the South Island I found a bag of variegated yarn for $10 and thought it might be ideal for a project.

Some of the polyester yarn

As it turns out that happened faster than I thought as our temporary home while in Wellington belonged to our friend Jinnie who has a table loom that was at the time not being used.

For the first time ever I dressed a loom without doing any real calculations first (apart from checking the WPI of the yarn and the dents per inch of the reed in the loom). I wound the warp around the back of two chairs and tied it on to the warp beam and wound it on under light tension ready to warp back to front. With Anne and I working back and front we had it dressed pretty quickly which was good as we had to pack it up the following day so we could drive it and Jinnie up to where she was currently living in Taupo.

After adding some thick weft to even out the warp I threw a few weft picks to ensure everything was working OK and barring one skipped dent there doesn’t seem to be any problems with the straight twill threading. After we left Taupo to return to Wellington Jinnie has continued weaving and some interesting color striping is starting to appear on the cloth.

Creating a woven QR code

I encountered a ‘new’ (to me) weaving technique a couple of months back and incorporated it in my entry for the guild challenge which was primarily about color. I wove my color blocks in three different techniques and one was ‘skip plain weave’ a technique often found in rugs which is ‘one sided’, i.e. the back carries floats over multiple warp threads while the front is woven tabby across the width. More on that later.

While working on that project I thought it might be a way to weave a QR code (for Kiwiweave.com) to hang on the wall behind our stall at the 2024 Birchwood Fiber Festival. After much pontificating I finally kicked the project off a few days back and will document it here.

First step was to generate the QR code. A quick google search will show that there are hundreds of web sites that will generate codes for free. You input the URL you require and the webiste generates it in seconds. You then typically download a jpg or png image of the finished product. Try some out. Go for simple, black and white, and don’t add logos.

KiwiWeave.com QR code

Most modern mobile phone cameras will automatically recognize QR codes and pop up the URL which can be clicked on to bring up the web page. My phone didn’t so I loaded a free app that recognizes QR and bar codes and shows you the appropriate information. Useful for checking, at all stages. Using the jpg generated in the first step I then manually drew up the same information on graph paper which I find easier to ‘count’.

Same QR code copied to graph paper.

The sett of the weaving I did for the guild challenge was 10 epi using 8/2 cotton so I duplicated it for this project but calculated the number of ends needed to give a 15 inch QR code with 1.5 inch borders all around. The size of the logo also dictated that 6 warp ends be used in each ‘box’ of the pattern – either black or white and read one line at a time from the bottom up.

Winding the warp took an hour including setting things up then it was a move out to the studio to dress ‘Gypsey’.

The photo’s above (from top left corner – clockwise): The warp wound on to the warp beam. The heddles threaded and reed sleyed. Warp tied on. Floating selvedge weights. Floating selvedges. Warp packed and ready to weave. All of the above took another 6 hours.

The structure is weft predominant and woven in 3/2 pearl cotton. The border is silver/grey and the actual code is obviously black and white. As I had not tried this level of trickyness before I decided a test piece was needed so wove some borders and just one row of squares alternating between black and white. This little bit of weaving took longer than setting up and that was mostly because of the ‘mistakes discovered that had to be ‘unwoven’. The mistakes were largely counting errors as each weft shot (black and white) through the same shed needs to go over three under three. I wove this with the pattern to the top and the floats to the bottom which slows things down and easily lends itself to miscounting – on the real QR code I will flip this upside down as it should be easier to count and manipulate the top part of the shed. The other mistakes were twisting either the grey or white with the black or any other combinations which then did not sit flat or neatly with the rest of the color transitions. The test piece has at least allowed me to work out a sequence where this doesn’t occur.

Even with meticulous checking there are two errors in the left photo where a weft shot goes over one more warp thread than it should, but this doesn’t show too much and I suspect would not interfere with the camera imaging and working out the URL. I used small plastic shuttles as they have a long thin ‘nose’, next I’m going to find some stick shuttles and see if they make the manipulating of warp threads easier.

The guild already think I’m crazy after tackling the hand tied Turkish knot rug because of how slow it was. I suspect the meeting program where I present this method will only reinforce my craziness. ‘Nothing like a challenge’ I say!!

2023 Birchwood Fiber Festival

May was the month for our (a small group of Fiber Artists – mostly from our Weaving Guild) inaugural Fiber Festival. Over a year in the planning and perceived to be a replacement in our region for the now significantly changed Townsend event. I had put my name down to be Vendor Chair (after the years I had done this for the Smokey Mountain Fiber Arts Festival) and we also had several other ‘veterans’ on the board.

Initially we did not think we would have a lot of interest from vendors, but we chose the weekend to not clash too badly with any rival festivals. The Maryland Sheep and Wool was on, but that’s way out of our ‘local’ league. We also had to consider Instructors to run interesting courses as the whole package needed to be attractive to the public who we needed to turn up in their hundreds it was all to work.

Our venue was the Birchwood Community Center (where we hold our monthly guild meetings. We know the folk who manage the place and they were super supportive in our planning and as a bonus they would supply all day food from the (ex-school) cafeteria. It is how they make their little bit of profit for their group. They also hold the Sandhill Crane Festival in January each year a very well attended Festival that has been running for many years

Through lots of planning meetings we agreed on strategies to promote and attract Vendors, Instructors, and the public. This included social media (www.birchwoodfiberfestival.com primarily), mail-outs to guilds and fiber related shops, setting up demonstrations at other fesitvals, TV appearances, and as much ‘sharing’ as we could encourage. Things came together slowly and we ended up with a completely full vendor hall, a good variety of courses on offer and quite a bit of interest gathered from our various appearances.

For the actual festival we started the set up on the Thursday, had Vendors arrive to set up on the Friday and much setting up of classrooms based on what the actual lessons would be. The vendor hall (my part of ship) was the gymnasium which meant a relative easy job setting out the spaces. We had decided that we wanted to have at least 8 foot aisles which allow better two way traffic and hence a traffic flow that goes up and back rather than just a quick one way look around.

The photo’s from top left, clockwise are: the gymnasium (tape marks on floor for vendor spaces), vendor spaces filling on Friday, the next three are the Festival about to open on Saturday morning.

We had good crowds on Saturday and less on Sunday, but a lot of people went out the door with shopping bags which apparently was enough for all but two of our vendors saying they want to come back for 2024. Anne I did well with our towels and Para-tassels and will actually have a booth for 2024, so I had better get going on some stock!

Wedding Throw Gift completed

With the wedding coming up in mid-April it was a case of rush rush rush to finish the previous tartan so that this one could be put on the loom and woven with time to spare. As it turned out we were well ahead of the game as it was slightly smaller than the last one and that made it far easier and faster to weave.

The colors were chosen and the warp wound.

The warp was tied on to the previous warp and pulled through the reed then heddles. Not the fastest process, but it went smoothly. After tying on to the front apron weaving was underway in just a little over two days (of part time work).

Weaving the Weddint Throw on ‘Big Mac’

It took three days (once again part time) to finish the weaving – it would have been quicker but an unexpected snag turned up. The knots, from tying on to previous warp, had little ‘tails’ and when a group of them came forward in the last pattern run of the throw they would tangle (behind the reed) and stop a clean shed opening! The solution was to spend half a day snipping the ends off. All that to finish the last 5 inches! Lesson learned. I cut the throw off, tied up the end edge fringes, trimmed them then gave it a delicate wash and tumble dry. Finally I combed out the fringes with a hair brush and it is now all ready to wrap up and post off to New York.

Finished Custom Tartan Wedding Throw

The next project is a run of 20+ cotton towels ready for the May Birchwood Fiber Festival. Always good to have a deadline!

Tartans and more tartans

The weaving of the Brown tartan finished a little while back, but I kept the finished throw on the loom as we were visited by my sister-in-law and her husband (the new owners of the throw) and I thought it might be nice for them to actually see it on the loom. They were very pleased with how it came out. We’ll now take it off the loom and finish tying up the fringes on either end then wet finish it. Delivery will be next time we visit their Lookout Mountain home some time soon.

Brown tartan on the loom with yarn for the next tartan.

To save just a little time I will cut of the current tartan and leave the remaining warp threaded through the heddles and reed. I am currently winding the warp for the next tartan – a custom design for Anne’s niece and her fiance as a wedding present in April. By tying on to the threaded warp I can slight speed up the process of threading through both the heddles and reed. I have done this before and while it seems like it would be a real time saver – by the time you tie on every warp thread (or almost all – this throw is slightly smaller) it is quicker but not hugely. I think it might be one or two less steps that could introduce threading errors, which is a good thing.

A fairly simple tartan design but it does look good (on the software)

In between tartans I was working on the 2023 Scenic Valley Handweavers guild challenge which is to take analogous colors from a color wheel and also using black; highlight those colors. I was able to find three colors amongst my stash and decided not only to weave them somehow but also to, on the same warp, repeat the pattern three times using three different weaving techniques. A challenge on top of a challenge as it were!

The colors are from a very simple primary and secondary color wheel and are red, orange and yellow. The first technique was completely new to me and is called ‘skip plain weave’. Often seen in rugs (Central Asian), but also European and Southern American woven pieces. It is one sided as the ‘alternate’ colors float across the back behind the weft faced ‘front’. I have begun the second technique which is Turkish knot pile weaving. When I finish, the blocks will have the pile trimmed quite short. The final technique will be tapestry weaving. The warp is 8/2 cotton, the skip plain weave is 3/2 pearl cotton (left over from tartans) and the pile and tapestry are an acrylic knitting yarn left over from the ‘Four Horsemen’ blanket project. I will then mount and frame the whole thing, tentatively called ‘Blocks of Sunrise & Sunset’, before the deadline in June.

This project will take a pause while I push through the ‘Wedding Tartan’, but should be ready by the reveal date.